By Clive Kandel

A Glittering Break

A Glittering Break were the words used by Harpers and Queen in Spring 1974 to introduce an undiscovered new fashion for Art Deco jewels. This was the very first editorial, daring at the time, suggesting the chic of wearing Art Deco rubies. This stunning pin was mine, having been chosen by the elegant white-gloved fashion editors of the day from the collection in my new first Bond Street London shop.

There’s an irony to this stunning sûreté pin. I bought it from the Cartier London second-hand department for 1,000 pounds sterling, then around $3,000, far more than its stone value at the time. I won’t mention names, but all the so-called top London Art Deco dealers sneered with the same comment, refusing to consider it for purchase; “I only buy style, this is just stones.” That tune drastically changed after the Duchess of Windsor auction, as those dealers dropped their boring horn, German metal and pewter bits and bobs for the real stuff.